Monday 24 September 2007

Descent pic


Here is another picture from the descent - maybe from 07:00 in the morning from approx. 4 500 m. People are still ascending to the summit over the Petite and Grande Bosses ridge - also known as the "Dromedary Humps". Actually dromedars only have one hump - the nickname originates from an old misunderstanding according to the guidebook.
The big snowy field behind the "Grande Bosses" hump is Dome du Gouter. Doesn't the horizon look a bit curved in the background?

Summit picture

Here is the summit pic from Friday morning, pretty dark huh? And I am not the only one who thinks it is cold at the summit... Fortunatly the wind was weak. I turned down shortly after this picture since my fingers were turning numb.

Friday 21 September 2007

Shadow of the peak


Summit! Woke up at 02:30 and dressed up. After a quick breakfast I turned on the headlamp and started walking in the dark at 03:20. The other persons which had breakfast started atleast 10min later but they never catched up - I kept a high speed on the frozen snow. The slope looked endless and every 15min I took a candy to get some quick carbo-hydrates. The wind was moderate and my feets were not cold as long as I kept moving. My watch stopped working but approx. 06:20 there was no longer a higher place to go! It was getting light and the siluette of Matterhorn could be seen in the distance. Spanish guys at the summit were waiting for the sunrise, I asked them to take a picture of me before I descended. It was bitterly cold and I wanted to cross the Grand coloir before it was too late. On the descent I met all the people going up, on the sharp ridges I kindly stepped aside when I found a good spot. On the way down I took this picture - the shadow of Mont Blanc in the sky at sunrise! Last time I saw this was in Russia on Elbrus, another big mountain. Descended in 2 hours and finally came back down in Chamonix. The ascent and descent from Gouter hut took 5 h, guidebook specifies 5h 30min for ascent only. Maybe I am at fit after all ;-)?

Thursday 20 September 2007

Gouter hut


Had breakfast at 07:00, My throat feels very dry, probably a smaller infection. Left some excessive things and scrambled up 650 m in 2 h. There was no major stonefall but I passed several memorials from earlier fatalities. Recently there were 2 persons killed on this section. Took a short break at the hut (3817 m) and continued to 4150 m for acclimatisation. The pic is from the way down - glacier looks good. Start for summit tomorrow at 03:30. :-)

Wednesday 19 September 2007

Hut Tete-Rousse


After the hotel breakfast I read the latest meteo - weather will be fine the next 3 days! B-) Packed my small backpack and left the other luggage in the hotel. Went to les Houches by taxi but cable car was closed for the season, but after a short walk I reached the other lift in operation. By cablecar to upper station and then a walk up the rocky terrain to the hut at 3167 m. Finally above the clouds again! :-) Tomorrow Gouter hut and then summit!

Tuesday 18 September 2007

Chamonix


Arrived in Chamonix without trouble (bus was cheap but infrequent). Did not find an Internet café with memory card reader - action photos have to wait. :-( Met Peter and Sophie, they have had a nice climbing time. Will probably climb Mont Blanc the normal route tomorrow without a party ('solo') but I bet that I will not be alone on Friday morning.

Crap...


I have not taken any picture with mobile since last update but it has been far from boring. Since I do not know how to update the blog without sending a new picture - have another hotel room pic! ;-) The trip to Courmayeur went fine - met Joseph and Daniel on Saturday and made camp by a river when we lost sight of the path in the dark. Next day we reached the Gonella hut at 3050 m after a long scree on the Miage glacier and a 500 m (altitude) advanced scrambling. This climb was not for the faint hearted... Pitched tent at 20.00 on a small platform we carved out with the ice axes and had a sleepless Sunday night. No summit attempt as we were tired, we had heard the glacier was badly crevassed and most important - a storm will arrive on Tuesday. Today we downclimbed and I am now in back in town. Will try to upload pictures from my camera tomorrow.

Friday 14 September 2007

Mont Blanc - again


Going to Mont Blanc again! Made a decision about this recently - last time the weather defeated us! Will go with Daniel again plus companions, will meet them in Entreves tomorrow. Picture is from the hotel room on Arlanda airport (classy but expensive!). Flight to Amsterdam and Geneva leaves at 06:30 on Saturday, will meet up with US woman Sophia there to share car to Chamonix. All ahead!