Started at 08:30 from the hotel and walked to Le Mont above Les Bossons. At 10:00 I started the ascent on a good path. Some easy scrambling at the end, reached La Jonction at 13:30 at 2590 m. Was greeted by 4 women in their 40's, 5 guys and 2 sheeps. The glacier looks easier than the Dome glacier on the italian side but will not tackle it alone (saw some tombstones yesterday with people who had stepped into crevasses higher up). This will be the last blog entry for now, sorry I have not read the comments (if any?) but surfing with mobile is not that easy...
Splendid weather, Mont Blanc summit as seen from the church. Will do a day hike up the classic Grand Mulets route to atleast the 'gite a Balmat' point, the place where the first ascentionists slept under a rock before continuing to the summit the next day. This point is the rocky spur seen between the glaciers in the lower section.
No - Monte Rosa was not kind to us this year either. Yesterday we were idling in the tent hoping for better weather. This did not happen. Tonight there was another big snow dump (+30cm for a total of 50cm fresh _wet_ snow in less than 48 hrs). Add to that some battering 25m/s wind gusts and get the picture. We descended the ridge with some spin drifts at 1 m before finally in safety (but wet as dogs!) Daniel and I have now parted, me planning if some small thing is still possible. In need of new partner (planning picture included)!
At 3117 m in the Monte Rosa massif. It has been raining and hail on the 1300m ascent today, not pretty!
Tonight there was mixed rain/hail which was good - it was far to water and we collected some for drinking. The descent was uneventful apart from the second snowfield (picture). Now it was Daniel's time to fall over but he took a chance since he choosed not to use the crampons. Cooking by the car right now - pasta and Pringles taste good now!
The first hour was fairly easy on the glacier, apart from an icy section where I slipped and bruised my fingers. Time to sharpen the crampons I think? The glacier went more difficult and suddenly there was no more way to go. Spent 90 min path finding but the easiest way would have required 2 ice axes and small backpack. Descended some for the night - this route is quite hard at the moment. We need to climb something else.
Had a late morning, did not sleep very well on the hard ice and hearing the rocks and seracs fall all night. Will try to negociate the seracs today.
Ascended from 2000m to 3100m today in difficult terrain. Just pitched the tent on one of the few flat spots which are safe from rockfall - between some small crevasses on the glacier. Trying to assemble water before the streams freezes over.
A short 50 min walk to lac du Miage,pitched the tent. I think I spotted a marmot close to the tent?
Met Daniel on the bus station - decided to try the Italian Normal Route. Daniel failed this route last week as they encountered a big crevasse on the glacier. At the end of the road right now for final packing (and Daniel is repairing his sun blocking aluminium, his car will really look like a bird scaring device when finished!). The right side mirror is now gone... Left the 60m rope behind, will trust the 15m rope instead.
Short stop in Chamonix for bus change. Monte Bianco looks great today!
Time to leave, just had dinner and bought some supplies in town. On the bus heading for Chamonix, should be possible to continue to Courmayeur from there. Road tolls seems to be present on this road. Excellent weather!
21.2 kg luggage according to the airport scale - no problem. Or that was what I thought. After I have passed the security check I was called for by the staff. This usually means trouble. After I demonstrated the two empty gasoline containers and the kitchen (and they used their nose) it was ok. No gasoline smell. Ready to go!
This blog has been little updated lately but things are about to change - new trip to the Alps! First to Geneva, then to Courmayeur. Then to where? Will discuss this with Daniel, my old travel buddy for alpine adventures. The backpack is a mighty 21.5 kg beast and my cabin luggage is 11.5 kg, will try to squeeze some more into my pockets (not in weight limits) to avoid extra charges... May the weather be with us!
